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MapDescription
Right facing corner that starts as a squeeze chimney and finishes with an airy move over a chock stone. I recommend right side in for full value as left side in allows you to climb easy crimp rails and bypass the OW suffering (otherwise what’s the point?)A trad anchor just above and right of the rotten chock stone can be set with hand size pieces up to a 6 and extend it down to just above the chock stone.
Location
50 yards left of spank your monkey and big easy on the first main headwall.
Protection
Camalots in 0.4, 6, 7 and 8. A .5 can fit in the start about 7 feet up if you don’t have an 8. The 7 fits perfectly below the chockstone. You could maybe place nuts there but I wouldn’t trust them as the chockstone is like cat litter.
Routes in Beardsley Roped Routes
- 16Unknown Offwidth5.9Trad