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Peak Mountain 3

Juniper Crack (1st Pinnacle)

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Description

This is a good route for taking beginners on. Climb the

East Bench Dihedral

to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East Bench. Move as far right as possible between the East Bench and the First Pinnacle. Continue to move to the right past a broad groove with a single bolt and through a mild overhang with big holds, just below a small juniper tree.

Climb to the top of the first pinnacle by passing to the right side below said tree and then up.

It's a nice pitch, but it is not great for the beginning 5.6 leader. The gear runs out prior to the crux, and so it is probably a bit hairy if it is at the leader's limit. Still, it has exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.

Protection

A few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes. There are a few moves that might be thumpers for inexperienced leaders.