South Face Left (1st Pinnacle)

This route was fun and steep compared to many other Flatirons climbs. The lichen streak is cool looking, and the holds are interesting and mostly on sound rock. Too bad it's not all bulletproof. Start making big moves off the ground to good but not always great pockets, slopers, and sidepulls. Work up on good feet and long reaches to holds that seem to appear where you need them. Keep moving unless you find a hold you can shake out on as the pump will build. At half height, there is a big rest, then continue to crank upwards in similar style to the top. Overall, it felt like a series of boulder problems separated by okay to great rests.

If this climb was sport bolted, I'm sure it would see traffic, but perhaps some of the holds wouldn't survive that many people. It is worth the effort to setup the top rope if you want to climb something a little steeper.

Start just to the right of the

West Bench Dihedra

l. Head up through the green lichen streak to the left of

South Face Direct

.

We built a top rope anchor at the first BIG notch in the ridge and backed it up with a good cam closer to the bolt anchors. Lead or scramble up the West Ridge of the 1st Pinnacle to get there.

Very little to no pro without traversing into the already R/X

South Face Direct

. We TR'd this route using a large nut, a #2 Camalot, and a #3 Camalot. Long slings are necessary. Make sure you are putting gear in good rock up top. When finished, you can walk 10 feet east and rap 110 feet from good bolts or scramble down West Ridge (exposed 4th class).