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Peak Mountain 3

Swainson

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Description

This short top-rope is a good quick climb to finish off your afternoon at Cueva. The anchors are easily accessible and it has a great view over the Rio Grande Valley. That said, it's not a spectacular climb. At first glance, one notices many signs that holds have broken off. In actuality, the holds are all solid and I don't think more rock will be torn off unless you start to meander from the route.

The climb takes a vertical line up a short face, utilizing a few hidden,deep, and narrow pockets.

Location

Find this climb on the north side of the western-most spit of rock at Cueva. The climb isn't obvious from the ground; there are two climbable crack systems on this wall, and Swainson is to the west of both of these. The best way to find the climb is to scramble up to the anchors. Reaching the anchor requires easy 5th class scrambling along the easy western-most slabs.

Protection

The top-rope anchor for this route consists of two 3/8" bolts. They are set back 10 feet from the sloping lip so bring some webbing to extend the anchor.