- Edit (TBD)
Description
I've soloed this a few times previously, carrying a rope along to rap down, but having made an earnest effort to lead and protect it today, I guess it's a route now. In any case, it is a nice way to get up high on an exposed false summit just northeast of the true summit of La Cueva (go over there to extend the route), and the view is great in all directions. The origin of the route name is lost to antiquity.P1 (70ft): The route starts near the northeast corner of La Cueva just left of an oak tree growing close to the rock. Pick your path up mostly unprotectable but surprisingly solid rock, trending right to stay on the path of least resistence. The rock is variably pocketed, which is great in terms of occasional jugs, but bad in terms of protection. About 30ft up and to the right you can put place a pink tricam passively in a small pocket by inserting and twisting counter-clockwise. Continue up another 30ft on easy but unprotectable rock and arrive at a nice ledge with a modern bolt+quicklink. FOr an anchor, you can back up the bolt with a Camalot #3 in a pocket above.P2 (130ft): Head up more unprotectable rock until a horizontal "crack" (that's a stretch) is reached. This crack will accept a good pink tricam placement, but there are also marginal options to the right for tiny cams or ball nuts. Climb up trending generally left toward a col. Consider placing big cams passively in large huecos but don't waste much time trying. Once you head into the right-trending corner/crack system above, you will be greeted with a yellow Camalot placement followed by a modern bolt 15ft thereafter that protects the crux move, which entails stepping to the right on slightly steeper rock (5.5). From there head up trending generally left with maybe one more small cam or nut placement. Arrive at a modern 2-bolt anchor plus chain just below the exposed false summit. Great place to have a beer and watch the sunset, though they'll ticket you if you do the latter.I did not put the 4 bolts on this route and I don't know who did. Let me know if this is a known/named route.
Location
NE corner of La Cueva, just below the true summit (reddish rock) and left of an oak tree. If you only bring one 60m rope, the descent is a rap off the 2-bolt summit anchors, followed by an easy 10-15ft downclimb to the single P1 belay bolt, followed by a rap from that bold to the ground where you started climbing.
Protection
I think you could reasonably protect it with a full set of tricams up to large sizes. Without that, there are long sections of runout. Bring 3-4 slings to extend any gear you place.
Routes in Shady Side
- 3Garp Tarp5.5Trad