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Peak Mountain 3

Chicken

FA Tim Olson, Greg Lyon, 4/89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is probably most often climbed as an easy way to setup a top-rope for Mind Games. There are multiple variations.

To keep this at 5.7, do not climb it the way Olson's guidebook indicates. Climb up to the first bolt and layback the crack (ignore the spinning bolt, I'll chop it soon) up to the roof and step right. Pull onto the midway ledge, clip the bolt (probably want an extra-long runner here), then scoot left around the corner onto the slab. Shimmy your way horizontally across this for about 20' until you encounter a left-arching thin crack. Find the hidden jug, step left, then prepare for the final move. The holds are all there but it's a strenuous pull. Once over this final bulge, scramble upwards to the black Metolius rap hangers. Lower off your own gear or rappel straight down and you'll go over the Mind Games crux roof.

Alternative 1 (5.8?): Take the line indicated in Olson's guidebook; step left where the hand crack cuts right under the roof. Try not to step on the obvious "diving board" feature as it's loose. Pull up into the slot then make an awkward, reachy move to get over the bulge. The above route description joins here.

Alternative 2 (5.9?): From the midway ledge, climb the Gym Droids extension to the new anchor. Stemming and technical but not-too-hard moves get to a small ledge. Do not pull on the big loose chunks - they're not necessary anyway.

Location

Far left side of Hardscrabble on its own separate platform, just right of the huge Mind Games roof

Protection

Gear to 1.5", 2 bolts, rap hangers at the anchor