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Peak Mountain 3

Gym Droids

FA Tim Olson, Greg Lyon, 4/89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route could start just left of Life As We Know It, but that option is currently choked with poison oak. Instead, start as for Chicken, heading up and right, avoiding poison oak at 20'. Pull through a brief tricky sequence onto a ledge. The route used to end here, but I added a 20' extension to a new anchor (8/19).

Step towards the back of the ledge and stem up into a stance with good holds and a crack, but suddenly no feet. Note the old raven nest immediately to your right. Make a technical but not-too-difficult move to snag the horn up and left, pull up to a small ledge, and you're at the anchors.

Note: Don't pull too hard on the blocks up and left of the anchor - you don't even need to touch them, really. I yarded on them and they didn't budge but time may loosen them.

Location

Far left side of Hardscrabble, left of the Red Sun Rising open belay area, just left of a healthy poison oak bush on the wall 20' up.

Protection

Gear to 1.5", rap hangers at anchor