Wise Guys

Start to the Left of the rotten/shattered overhanging seam. Do a couple moves on side-pulls to get established on wall and traverse directly Right to good hold at base of shattered crack. Climb rotten seam up and right until it ends at rest stance in shallow dihedral. Follow shallow corner up to the hanging block at which point you gave 2 choices: Go straight up lie-backing hanging block (burly but secure) -or- sneak left and do easier but quite delicate and insecure moves which reward you with a no hands rest leaning against the Left side of the hanging block. Finish on good crimps up short final head wall. Kinda a "gimme" at 12a (some suggest 11d) but the botom bit is pumpy and the top section is tricky. It's a great TR as well as "heady" lead. fun and varied climbing.

Although it would not be impossible to place gear in the bottom section on lead it is HIGHLY recommended to pre-equip the bottom 30 feet! On rappel it takes a considerable amount of time and skill to finagle gear into the funky slots and rotten cracks. Even then, most of it is not extremely confidence inspiring (It's ok, just not what I'd call Bomber). Bring a set of stoppers and TCU/Alien/C3's, medium sized cams up to BD #2 (3") as well as a long (48") runner to sling the "sideways tombstone" up top.