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Peak Mountain 3

North Tower, South Face

FA unknown
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Description

Starts on a pedestal, with some 5.5-5.6 scrambling up from there.  Midday up you start to stem, with some small flakes and cracks to grab.  For the full 10d do the finger crack on the final headwall - more like 5.9 if you stay in the corner all the way up.

RCM&W #65

Location

The name says it all - stand on top of the North Tower, then climb the southern face of it. Be careful accessing the tower - go slowly around the big chimney, don't jump across.  

Protection

The tower is pretty small on top - not a lot of great spots for TR anchors, but we made it work. Natural anchors are scarce as the tower is detached from the main rock. Didn't lead, but you'd want lots of smaller stuff.


Routes in Palisade Head


  1. 51
    North Tower, South Face
    5.10c
    Tr · Trad