The Usual

There isn't much agreement on the actual location of several old routes at Parks. Often, new routes get bolted vertically whereas old ones traversed or wound their way to the top, resulting today in a lot of shared space. D.C. is one such route, which shares its start with what is being called The Usual.Start 10' right of Midnight Rambler and climb straight up to the anchor. The first bolt feels like a 20' free-solo, so bring small gear to calm your nerves. Two-thirds of the way up there is a 5' vertical bulge with poor feet; keeping left stays with the grade or mantle the obstacle a 5.9 upgrade.Watch out for poison ivy at the bottom ledge, especially when you pull the rope! 

On the approach trail, stay downhill as you pass Craig's Crack, cross the low point of the Basin, and go slightly uphill for another 50' to the Midnight Rambler crack. Start 10' to the right on the face.

Sparse bolts with anchors. Small cams help protect the gaps, especially at start.