Offwidth Corner

Thanks to Mike Moritz, Chuck Fitch, and Adam Huxley this climb has become much safer!

This is the inviting corner with an offwidth size through the easy part. It had an ominous flake capping its crux that belied belief that it remains unfallen.

Thanks again to Mike, Chuck, and Adam it is now gone!

This guillotine-like flake resisted some basic kicking, tugging, and pulling, but it seemed to be attached for now by a small lip at 5 o'clock and its left side. On the 1st go, it appeared unsafe to pull on, which resulted in attempts to skirt it to the left...unsuccessfully.

A prybar pulled up allowed them to lever it off!

The flake's top did flex a bit.

On the first go, it was scaly, wet, and needed cleaning...which made skirting the flake feel 5.11. After cleaning on a dry day, Mike used the flake for one hold and thought it was 5.8, but that seemed too conservative to me.

Edit: I'll go try it again and rerate it when it gets warm enough to do so.

This is to the right of

The Belay Brothers Bounce Back

and left of

Small Axe

.

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot (old size) plus a #5 (old size) Camalot and a #4 Bigbro (optional) were used.