Start sitting with an incut jug slot.  Move your left hand up to crimpy, 3 finger pocket, find your right hand intermediate of choice, and bust straight up to chunky/raspy edge.

Starting the same, going up right hand to the crimpy pocket and locking off to the left via a bomber foot ledge is (daddy monster) "super creep" and is in the V5 or 6 range.

So, yes, these are a bit contrived, but the point is the challenge.  If you are looking for majestic 4 star lines, you are in the entirely wrong park.

vimeo.com/108726154

Super Chunk

Diagonal Crack

The Howitzer

Magician's Apprentice

Albatross

Morning Glory

Rising Sun

Pointillist

Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing

Renaissance

Five Seven Crack

Gun Control

Marijuana

Lowly Morning

The Millard Filmore Memorial

Beast Master

This is the obvious wide crack in a corner right of "

Gun Control

."

Bushwhack through a few bushes, and start up the wide crack to a roof. Exit the roof to right, and belay off of a tree. The off-width horror can be minimized by using features outside of the crack.

This is the obvious, right-angling crack on the Morning Sun Wall.  The crack starts off on crumbly rock but above the rock gets better.  Take the line of least resistance to get to the top.

The route starts just left of this climb.

Just left of

Marijuana

, this route starts from the same ledge and has a sporty first bolt that is easily stick-clipped. Follow three bolts to a ledge, passing a lieback/jam flake. There is a bolt on the ledge that is not visible from the ground. From the ledge, fire up on positive holds and another flake until crux cobbles and pockets beckon. A fine outing.

This is the right crack in the corner right of "

Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing

." Despite the crummy appearance, this route has good, quality climbing.

A dirty, marginal hand crack leads to a ledge where a cave is located. Take the right corner though a short squeeze chimney (small pro in the back) through a series of roofs. Surmount the final wide section, and follow tight hands to the top.

This is a very asthetic line, and a nice length for the Wood (about 65 feet of climbing). The first bolt is about 15 feet off the deck and the moves are dicey (for the 5.10 climber), so make sure you're solid for this first clip. The crux is a balancy pull up to a bulge to get to some deep pockets. A cobble may have pulled out at this bulge, leaving a slopey pocket and a cobble pinch for your hands. Once past the big pocket, pull quickly through this overhanging section for some more bomber pockets.  Now angle up to the right through a few more slightly runout bolts to the anchors. This is a great route with a tricky and strenuous crux.

The crux is truly towards the top. Be careful using the flake that is a great jug to swing from, it flexs quite a bit and I wouldn't trust it.

Start by climbing the crack on the right and follow it all the way up, stay to the left after you're half way up otherwise you are doing a 5.9.

Follow a left-leaning "crack" for a sustained and chossy ride past the first three bolts.  The first bolt is quite high and the rock below it is a bit loose - stick clip advised.  Once at the "rest" ledge, head straight up the improbable headwall past the last two bolts.  The guidebook notes that a large hueco to the left "will grant you easier passage" after the last bolt, but this way seems very contrived and would implicate a decent pendulum.  It is best to power straight up via an unlikely-looking dyno from a kneebar - probably 11b or so.  It gets 0.83 stars, but with a little more traffic (and consequent removal of some of the lower choss), this would be a fine outing.

Begins with a short crack in an inside corner to gain a ledge. The crux slab is in the middle and it finishes with a fun roof.

Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area.  Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood.  This is a perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim.

Park at the Falls trailhead lot.  The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go.

The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip.  Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two.  There are two good bolts on top.

Left of a smooth wall at the middle of the Morning Sun Wall is a series of cracks and flakes that makes an interesting lead.  Start off on the smooth wall under the climb and surmount a ledge.  There are a few harder unprotectable  face climbing moves right off the deck if you take a direct start.  Otherwise you could start on the first shelf and traverse to the climb.  There are several old, manky,  hangerless bolts along the climb.  Follow the cracks and flakes up taking whatever line you choose.

This has a high first bolt to a one finger pocket. Traverse left, then gun for the top.

Ah yeah...this is a great climb with two fun sections. On the Morning Sun Wall to the right of the other mentioned climbs are 4 sport climbs with two-bolt anchors atop.  Marijuana is the second from the left and starts atop a ledge.  You may want a stick clip for the first.  The bolts atop are not to be lowered off, so one will have to eventually clean the draws and walk off (the best way is opposite of the Cave Wall). You may also want to use 2 foot slings atop to eliminate rope drag. Party on!

This is a low traverse that goes right for ~400 feet.

This route starts at the right side of the large, detached flake. Climb the corner crack up to a loose ledge, undercling the arch, for a move or two, then step across to the left, work into the flake to the top.

Climb up small cobbles to a dihedral and some small edges and pockets. This has finicky insecure, difficult climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Morning Sun Wall