- Edit (TBD)
Description
I climbed a variation on Peregrine Song, so I'm not exactly sure where my line diverged. But description below anyways.
P1: Climb through a bush to a bushy ledge (it sucks). Walk up the ledge until the bushes force you to start climbing again. Aim for the large (#6?) crack up and to the right. Stem the bay above until you can pull onto the arete to the right and finish at a sloping ledge with small tree for the belay. I think Peregrine Song goes left after the offwidth. (10a)
P2: Climb the perfect 0.75 vertical crack. Move right, climb a 5.8 chimney back towards the left. Nice wide belay ledge. I'd recommend this variation to Peregrine Song, which I suspect goes up the more obvious hand crack to the left after the offwidth. (10c)
P3: Easy climbing up a series of cracks and catwalks to the right. Climb a short fun handcrack to a big horn. Sketchy moves up the face (avoid the hollow sounding flake to the left, even though the climbing looks easier). Move up and left along an easy slab walk. Belay at the base of a vertical jumbly crack. (5.9)
P4: Most funnest bit of climbing right off the belay. Culminates with a powerful move pulling over the roof. Then a long scramble to just below the beautiful orange headwall. (5.9)
P5: We went up and then right, following the two parallel dikes towards a promising looking double crack (looong runout). The crack system was harder than hoped, and required a 2 lobe black totem aid move and then some 10b climbing. (10b, C1). More long runouts up and to the right to find a upwards facing crack for the belay. I would recommend not following our route here, follow Peregrine Song straight up the offwidth from the P4 belay.
P6. Up and right slab traverse under the headwall with limited gear. Move up/right, step up once, traverse left, step up again, and you're at the top! (5.7)
Finally, the FA rated this 5.9. I'm not sure where exactly that route went. I definitely think the thin hands crack was at least as hard as Lunatic Fringe in the valley, so 10c for that. The first offwidth felt like 10a to me, but I wouldn't argue if a 1990's hardman told me I'm a weakling and it was actually 5.9...
Location
Hike around the south side of Disappearing Dome. You'll see a large crack system in the dome. Your goal is to reach the plumb-line below that crack system. The base is located at 37.4700N, 119.2575W. Maybe you can find a better starting pitch than we did though...
Protection
Standard double rack. Also a #6 would be helpful, but you could also make do by slinging a chockstone in the crack if you feel confident at 10a stemming/offwidth.
Routes in Disappearing Dome
- 1Peregrine Song5.9Trad