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Peak Mountain 3

Do It Don't Spew It

FA Andersons: Jerry, Lynnea, Sigrid. 9/2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Varied, fun, and extremely well protected. The two 5.11 cruxes are short and one could easily pull through on bolts.

All anchors bolted

P1 - 5.11c - Make a move, clip a bolt, and head into the splitter 5.7 crack. When it ends, begin clipping bolts up the blank corner until you gotta bust a move to the right around the arete. Quite baffling. Head up the beginning of the flake system to a stance.

P2 - 5.10a - Up the double crescent flake that is seriously thin and sharp in spots. Yowza. Bolts and gear. It's best not to clip the 4th bolt, or backclean it, or maybe extend it really long. It's in a dumb spot and will bring your rope right into the constricting flake. If you have enough draws, you could easily link into the next one.

P3 - 5.9 - Continue on the flake. Where it ends, move right into some more flakes. Bolts and gear. Nice ledge

P4 - 5.11a - Very closely spaced bolts leads up the awesome thin dike. Pinch and smear your way up until it ends. Traverse right on another dike to anchor. Felt like 5.9 compared to P1.

P5 - 5.7 - Up cracks/flakes, short. One pro bolt between flakes

P6 - 5.8 150 ft. - Bolts lead up and left on great rock to the arete. Low angled rock leads into a ramp/corner. Bolted belay on right.

P7 - 5.7 150 ft. - Continue in the corner until a couple bolts protect a blank spot, then head up right out of the corner past some more bolts to the anchor.

4th slabs to the summit. Easy walk off the backside.

Location

Once on the backside of Disappearing Dome, drop your packs and head to the gully on it's north (skiers left) side. With one 70m, make 5 or so rappels down this gully, scrambling a bit in between some of them. You'll pass some other routes with bolts that start out of the gully but this one starts from the very bottom. Look for the low bolt on P1 and the flake of P2 and 3

You could also walk around the other side (skiers right), but the gully approach is fast, easy, and leads right to it.

Protection

Light rack to #2. maybe extra #.75 and 1. Maybe 15 draws.


Routes in Disappearing Dome


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    Do It Don't Spew It
    5.11c
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