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Peak Mountain 3

Penny Perfect

FA Cory Brooks and Trevor Crough (05/30/2020)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 – Climb the perfect splitter below two triangular roofs. The crack progresses from fingers to thin hands, then glory #2 hands. The crack is sharp, tape is advised. Ends on a bolted anchor below the roof. Stellar pitch.

70’, 5.9. Gear to 3”, Triple #1 useful. Double #2.

P2 – Head out right from the belay to gain the thin crack, then pull through the weakness in the triangular roofs. Above the roof, a technical slab is protected by bolts and optional gear in a plant filled water groove. From the slab head into a pair of flake systems, and end up to the right past one more bolt to a good ledge with a bolted anchor.

180’, 5.10a. 7 bolts, gear to 3”

P3 – From the ledge head out left into some blocky and hollow flakes.

Tread carefully

here as some of the blocks may be loose, and the flakes are hollow.

Avoid placing gear

until you reach a large right facing flake. Underling the flake, then traverse right past 2 bolts, and straight up past 2 more bolts to reach an alcove above a massive flake. Gear belay in the flake.

4 bolts, gear to 3’, 110’, 5.8

P4 –  From the gear belay head straight up the easy runout slab. Be wary of potentially loose blocks just above the belay. Head slightly to the left to gain a bolted anchor on a rock shelf.

Gear to 1”, 2 bolts, 230’, easy 5th. Bolted anchor.

Easy walk-off the top of the dome

Note - The route is named after the dog of one of FA, who passed away from osteocarcinoma on May 9, 2020. Penny was a perfect little dog.

Location

Make 3 raps down the gully between the main dome and the weird looking rock pillar. Raps made with a single 70m rope with scrambling between stations. Look for the obvious splitter that starts below a pair of triangular roofs. you can't miss it.

Protection

bolts and rack to 3". Triple #1 and double #2 useful for the first splitter crack pitch.


Routes in Disappearing Dome