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Peak Mountain 3

Riprovando

FA 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

After reaching the diagonal crack, foot- or hand-traverse up this (crux #1) to a stance in a flaring, short chimney. Climb up a few feet before tip-toeing rightward on initially tenuous friction that eases considerably after a few moves. Continue working up and right, crossing a couple horizontal cracks and utilizing knobs on the steepening face above them, to a final, no-hands crux friction move reaching another horizontal crack. Up onto this and move right to top out. The route could be TR'd, but a few directionals would be necessary. We hoped to link this route with the nice line directly above it ( Reproof ), but the intervening 30' cliff is harder than it looks. The face to the right of Provando's second pitch is tricky 5.10 friction or even trickier 5.11 friction, and would require at least two, perhaps 3 bolts for just 20' of real climbing. We ended up calling these two different names, Reproof for the line on the Jammer Wall. This one's name is Italian for "to prove again", a reference to the motto of the defunct Italian Royal (Science) Society.

Location

2m right of the vertical crack on the left side of the Provando Wall, below the bottom of a left-rising diagonal crack. Either walk over to this after climbing two pitches of Stairway to Heaven, rap down from the Upper Wall Access Path above (there's a fixed anchor there), or scramble up the steep gully past Robin's Rainy Day Route to get here.

Protection

Small trad rack with cams from 1/4" to 1 1/2". There are several bolts along the route.