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Peak Mountain 3

Blueberry Pie

FA 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb up to horizontal, then move left along a broken vertical, left-leaning crack. At a horizontal crack beneath a small overhang, move up and right to another vertical, left-leaning crack, and climb it to a stance on the left edge of a left-facing corner. Step up and right onto the face, up to a perch beside a small spruce tree, with a dead white birch to the left. The route follows cracks between large, chocked blocks. While they seem solid enough now (and have been this way for over 20 years), it would not be surprising to hear they've fallen. The climbing is good, though not very clean, and while the finish is adequate, it would be nice if the route continued to the very top of the cliff, rather than ending as it does, at that ledge.

Location

Upper-upper wall, the final major outcrop among the main South Corner face cliffs. Access this wall by climbing something on the Jammer Wall below, or by 3rd classing up the ramp to climber's left (this ramp begins just right of Stand Your Ground). This route begins at a small left-facing corner left of a black streak issuing from a wide horizontal crack 15' above the ledge. Descent if via rappel off one of the trees on the ledge above. There is a fixed anchor on a tree to climber's right of the current top-out

Protection

Standard rack, with perhaps a 4" cam for the initial horizontal (a 3" will work).