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Peak Mountain 3

Animal Farm

FA 2012, Tom Lane
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Description

The crux is the face moves halfway up. These are well-protected by bolts, but getting here requires trad gear, as does most of the remaining cliff afterward. Short climbers may want to protect the final moves leading to the crux bolt, which a crack off left will provide. Once you've deciphered the sequence, the moves are not particularly strenuous. It is the challenge of coming up with the correct sequence that precipitates the most falls.

Location

Start in the blocky, overhanging notch right of center of the Jammer Ledge. This is the same start as the penultimate pitch of the Gray-Harrison Alpine Route as well. From the top, walk climber's left to a rappel anchor, or down climb the ramp just left of the anchor.

Protection

Cams 3/8ths to 2.5". Doubles in 1 to 2" may be helpful. 3 QDs for the bolts.