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MapDescription
Start up "
New Ethics
", but then lead out right. Scramble to a ledge on the right side of a mini-pinnacle (a long ways off the ground), and reach out right to clip a bolt (just) above? a 1 1/2" wide ledge. Mantle up on this ledge with the very gently bulging wall pushing you backwards and move up slightly left using a 1/2 mono pocket for balance. A couple more insecure moves will gain you a good left-facing, right-trending, crack-dihedral system that leads to a corner-chimney. A few more clips up a great black headwall to the left leads you to the anchors. This is a really good route.
Protection
8 (9?) bolts.
Routes in Cactus Cliff
- 65Midget Toss5.11b/cSport