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Peak Mountain 3

Da Fly

FA Kevin McLaughlin, 1995. FFA: Dan Durland or Kurt Smith
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see the photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start.

The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive, and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. This is a pretty nice, power endurance section.

Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a, I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors.


Routes in Cactus Cliff


  1. 28
    Da Fly
    5.13b
    Sport