Illegal Smile

It seems that this good pitch doesn't get as much traffic as it merits because of a somewhat undeserved reputation as unsafe. It has good rock, position, and continuousness on the upper section.

Start in a left-facing corner, on the left side of the arete, just left of a wide, 20' high flake. Go up easily for a couple of bolts, then move right and gain the arete (crux). Follow enjoyable climbing on the right side of the arete to the anchors.

There is some cause for concern that a fall around the 4th and 5th bolts could land you on the flake. Since the harder moves in this section are by the bolts, this hazard shouldn't come in to play though the belayer should pay close attention and minimize slack through this section.

This is on a prominent, left-facing arete at the left end of Cactus.

11 bolts.