- Edit (TBD)
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)
Description
The route climbs the magnificent arete-face thats starts after the crux of
Gates of Eden
. You keep bouncing your left hand through the slopers on the left side of the arete, trying to find the best one, and crimping on the small holds with your right hand.
The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....
A good idea to try the route would be to climb
Double Jeopardy
and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.
Location
The route climbs through the arete on the left side of
Double Jeopardy
. It shares the same begining than
Gates of Eden
, turning right after the first bolt.
You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from
Double Jeopardy
.
Protection
There are 6 bolts and a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) to lower down.
If you are scared of cliping the first bolt, it's posible to place a piece of gear in the crack (red Alien)
Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag
- 12Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)5.13bSport