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Peak Mountain 3

Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)

FA equipped by Roger Molina, Spain - FFA Justin Sjong
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route climbs the magnificent arete-face thats starts after the crux of

Gates of Eden

. You keep bouncing your left hand through the slopers on the left side of the arete, trying to find the best one, and crimping on the small holds with your right hand.

The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....

A good idea to try the route would be to climb

Double Jeopardy

and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.

Location

The route climbs through the arete on the left side of

Double Jeopardy

. It shares the same begining than

Gates of Eden

, turning right after the first bolt.

You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from

Double Jeopardy

.

Protection

There are 6 bolts and a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) to lower down.

If you are scared of cliping the first bolt, it's posible to place a piece of gear in the crack (red Alien)