Headwall

Climb the headwall above the first pitch of

West Face

and left of the second (top-out) pitch of

West Face

. On July 26, 1974, Ron Gilligan led this headwall, using clean aid. I followed most of it free, after leading the 5.9 approach pitch. This was before the "FA" stated in guidebooks. Perhaps the later team did the FFA.

Begin atop the first pitch of

West Face

.

I don't know what a modern free ascent may find for pro. I rated it C4 in my 1974 journal. I recall that Ron used some barely placed wires for aid. If he weren't tall, it would have been more desperate. He did have to make free moves to connect aid placements. We didn't bring or use pitons, nor did we find any on the route.