Beethoven's Fifth

Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between

Cosmosis

and

West Crack

. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.

The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).

As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.

An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from

West Crack

than

Cosmosis

(the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).