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Peak Mountain 3

Friday's Friends

FA R.H. & R. W. 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route climbs the line a few feet right of Super Slab. The climb was cleaned and the bolts placed only after the quality was confirmed. Named for the two, independent Top-Rope-Soloists who happened to meet at Rainbow on Fridays.Approach - Same as for BonsaiSTART - The same START as Super Slab.P1 - (See "Bonsai Slab" Topo) Start essentially on "Super Slab’s faint dike" but immediately move right to gain the "scooped" stance (bolt above). Climb into the shallow, rounded, left-facing corner (5.7), clip 2nd bolt then up past two ledges (gear) and climb the cleaned face left of the non-gear, right-curving flake (3rd bolt). Gain the good ledges (about the level of Bonsai's tree; angle piton to your left) and then step right  [Var] and straight up easy, darker-colored rock (passing a rap anchor on the right) to the right end of the tree island above [5.3-5.4 R/X] . Move the belay to the LEFT side of the tree island (1 bolt + small tree and maybe some gear at belay). 130-140 ft 5.7Variation (RECOMMENDED: May be drier, and less lichen) - Once at the easy ledges, continue straight up lighter-colored rock to intercept Bonsai; take this up to gain the belay at the left end of the tree island. [5.3 R]P2 - From the left end of the tree island, step left and then straight up headed for a tiny overlap. Clip the one bolt below the overlap and climb over it. Continue up easily [5.2-5.3 R] , moving right slightly to the 2-bolt anchor shared with Bonsai.Originally thought to be about 5.7, subsequent ascents of P2 have found an easier way past the bolt and overlap. 5.5 100 ftDescent - From the double bolt anchor, make two raps with a full-length, single 60m rope.  The second rap station is on the right 15-20 ft below the small tree island-belay.    If you want to do it all in one long rap with doubled 60Meter ropes BEING SURE TO GO TO CLIMBER'S/RAPELLER'S RIGHT (viewer's / rope-thrower's LEFT) OF THE TREE ISLAND.

Protection

4 draws for the 3 bolts and 1 piton, Yellow T3 "Camalot" in right-facing flake above 2nd bolt, gear for the belay. ( med-to-large cam(s))