- Edit (TBD)
Description
Just the most wonderful, clean, white rock with excellent protection....although it was not always this way. The first time I climbed it the original drilled-on-the-lead 1/4" bolts were the pro! Soon these were replaced with 3/8". I gave this an additional star over the "consensus 3-star" Perfect Wave because there's nearly twice as long a section of climbing-at-the- grade.Approach - Same as for Tsunami. [From where the climber's path reaches the slab, walk right along the base about 35-40 ft. Go uphill to a dirt ledge below a brownish 12ft-high slab. Scramble or belay-climb up the 12 ft face to a large ledge with a couple of pine trees, one of which is knocked over.]This can be led in one long pitch with a 70M rope. Those with 60M ropes have three choices:1) Belay about 50-60 ft up where two solution pocket holes take large & med. cams. The holes are located just beyond the left end of the 'overlap-flake' that arches from the Super-Slab/Crazy Woman Driver belay; this is about 10 ft below, and slightly right of, "Cruise's" first bolt. [see "Tsunami Ledge" Route Photo] or...2) Both leader and second symul-climb at the end. Both are on fairly easy rock...3) Above the 3rd bolt move right (Red Camalot in hole protects the second) about 35 ft to a double bolt anchor. This anchor is about 40-50 feet directly below a prominent crack in the large overlap that runs above the top of the slab. P1 - From the right end of the Tsunami ledge climb up and very slightly left-ish (see Tsunami Ledge topo and photo) passing by the two holes about 50-60 feet up (optional "60 meter belay, see above.) Clip the first bolt (it's "high") and climb straight up past two more bolts. 5.7+ 210-215 ft to the trees, 200+/- ft to the dbl bolt anchor on the right.Descend - Again, 3 options: 1) The "classical" - There is a rap station on a tree that allows for a double-60M-rope rap back to the "Tsunami" tree ledge. You may have to downclimb a few feet to reach the ledge itself. Two possible single-rope raps are described below:2)
Alternate Single Rope Descent: A "new" double bolt rap station is located 40 ft below and about 40 ft to climber's right of the Cruise Control tree rap. (It is 40+/- ft directly below a prominent crack in the 4-5ft high overlap at the top of the slab.) To get there, move right from the 3rd bolt (a Red Camalot in a 'hole' protects the second) on an upwards diagonal. (Or make a 50 ft diagonal rap from the tree to this station.) From this bolted anchor, make a 90 ft rap to the Crazy Woman Driver/Super Slab belay/rap, then downclimb 5.2 for 60+/- ft, or rap diagonally left, back to the Tsunami Ledge (or, with a 70m rope, BUT NOT A 60m !) one rap to the ground at the base of Bonzai.)3) Single Rope Descent via Perfect Wave/Silver Surfer raps: move 40+/- ft to climber's-left of the Cruise Control rap-tree to the rap route of Silver Surfer's Rap line. The first rap is off 2 bolts with rings, the 2nd goes off a dbl bolt anchor at the Silver Surfer Belay (about 20 left of Perfect Wave's flake) The 3rd rap starts by a tiny tree about 20-25ft climber's/rappeller's left of the "fall line" from the 2nd anchor.
Protection
A gold (#2) Camalot-sized cam goes in one of the "holes" (check for wasps!) before the 1st bolt. A #1 (Red) Camalor-sized cam is useful if you are planning on going to the dbl bolt anchor to the right of the 3rd bolt.