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Peak Mountain 3

Perfect Wave

FA Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude November 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the premiere routes on Rainbow. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step or Silver Surfer.

pitch 1: Make your way to the belay ledge w/small birch tree. 5.4, 80ft. [Note, see photo for the variation "Dike Line" START. Usually, if one takes this start one belays at the base of the corner that is below the dikes.]

pitch 2: Move up and right into a shallow corner (gear possible) then up towards two well placed, but hard to find 3/8" bolts (Originally 1/4" bolts drilled by hand on the lead). [See photo of the two dikes and location of bolts.] Bolts protect the crux, then layback from vertical flakes to fixed slings. 5.7

pitch 3: Run it out to the dbl bolt anchor, or trees. (Can combine with P2 with a 60M rope, going to the double bolt anchor on Silver Surfer.)

Location

Ford the Swift river and cut into the woods to the Nanamocomuck ski trail. Find a small wooden sign with mileages marked on it. From here, turn north into the woods...[see full description in the "Getting There" section for the main cliff.]Descent-The route can be rapped with a single rope, using a bolted station on "Silver Surfer" and the P1 station on Perfect Wave/Silver Surfer/First Wave by the small tree.]

Protection

small to medium gear, bolts protect face moves on 2nd pitch, fixed slings, chains at the top