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Peak Mountain 3

Ring Finger

FA Kevin Worrall, et all
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another quality single pitch line, just up from Lunch Rock. Starts from the small ledge at the base of "The Pod" and "Dedo Grande", and is a decent warm-up if you can crack climb.

Begin by clipping a 2-bolt anchor (use a long draw) that is at the base of the route "Soul Terrain". You'll see this anchor just a step up and left of the main part of the terrace. From here traverse left over a small grassy ledge until you see another 2-bolt anchor just above you and below a small tree.

Once you clip this second anchor your belayer can step up and unclip the first draw to reduce drag. I recommend having your belayer clip direct into this anchor to safely belay the rest of the pitch (this will save your he/she from getting pulled off the terrace if you take a fall).

Climb up from the second anchor on big holds to a small ledge with a bulge above it. Pull up over the bulge and get established in the obvious left facing corner system. Stem and jam your way up the beautiful corner with increasing difficulty. At the top there is a nice rest.

From here its a bit tricky to read the route:

The crack you just climbed in the corner continues up and right from the rest, and its tempting...

But...think twice because there is an obvious arete right in front of you. I climb the arete using nice crimps out left, make a rad high-step that enables a long reach to a good horizontal hold. Match this hold, and move left to cool, large knobby holds in another corner system. Climb on the right side of this corner on more good holds until the route ends with a 2-bolt anchor with chains (shared with the 3-pitch route "Red Dihedral").

Location

At the base of the main wall just up and right from Lunch Rock. There is a small sandy terrace that is the start of 5 or 6 routes. Ring Finger starts from a 2-bolt belay on the left side of the terrace.

Protection

12 quick draws