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Peak Mountain 3

Tikki Man

FA Worrall, et all
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts from the same small ledge and bottom anchors as the route "Miss Brown" and joins that route after 5 bolts of independent climbing. A good bouldery route if you're looking for a harder single pitch affair. The climbing begins just right of a tree and left of the start of "Miss Brown".

Clip the first bolt from the ledge, and then immediately launch into steep terrain. The tricky starting moves (I hear a hold may have broken) gain a good undercling at the second bolt. Then bust a big move off the undercling (looks like taller climbers can move left?) to gain a flat jug. Stand up (knee bar out right helps in clipping the 3rd bolt), get a quick shake and move left to the base of a clean corner (marginal rest here). Tricky stemming leads up the corner to a good hold. Pull out of the corner and climb to your right along an arete to join up with "Miss Brown" below its crux (11b).

The top of "Miss Brown" has 2 different anchors. One straight up that is used if you want to climb "White Bulge" or "Right Bulge" to the top. Or move right after the last bolt to an anchor on "Pony Express" which has 2 biners and is much better to lower back to the ground from.

Location

Scramble up and to the right of the small ledge at the start of the routes "The Pod", "Dedo Grande" and "Ring Finger". You'll have to do a bit of class 4 to get up to a small ledge where you can clip into the belay anchor.

Route #28 in the ACSD topo/guide

Protection

12 quick draws to a lower off.