- Edit (TBD)
Description
Classic Line up the left side of the Right Wall...very mind bending sequences. Really nice rock.
Pitch 1 (11b/c): Begin by climbing the route "Miss Brown" from the ground and at the top of that route head right to the "Mind Bender/Pony Express" belay. From here Mind Bender's crux pitch heads straight up from the belay.
Pitch 2 (12a): The mind bending crux begins about 10 feet above the belay at a blank looking section of rock. Solve this crux and then pull up into a corner feature. Another bazaar sequence gains a stance above the corner, where easier climbing follows an arete for about 25 feet. At this point the line traverses right across the face and into a but crack of sorts on amazing sculpted orange and brown rock...follow the wandering line and above the orange sculpted rock is a 2-bolt belay...phew!
Pitch 3 (11a): Climb up off the belay and into a stemming corner capped by a roof with an obvious finger crack. Pull a very reach and difficult crux move out of the stem to better holds on white rock. Follow easier climbing to the summit and the last 2-bolt anchor.
Location
At the far left end of the steep recess of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green face of
Tikki Man
is a set of anchors at the base of the route. A short bit of 4th class must be negotiated to reach the anchor bolts.
Recommended to approach from the left side of the wall by walking up and right from Lunch Rock past the start of
Power Pod
. Walk under the bottom anchor bolts and climb back up and left for the easiest path.
Protection
16 quickdraws. Bolted anchors.
Routes in Right Wall
- 11Mind Bender5.12aSport