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Peak Mountain 3

Spawn

FA Ben Townsend, Alan Rees, Dorcas Miller
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

  1. Gain a short left-facing corner. At its top, step back right and climb a short slab to a grassy ledge. Follow the obvious crack left and up to a big step across, then go up to a bolted anchor on the left. 5.7, 90'

  2. Step back right and follow a vegetated crack to an overlap split by a finger crack. Pull through the overlap (crux) to a horizontal, where it's possible to clip a bolt (actually part of a different route -- use a very long runner). Work right, then up a slab with tricky gear to the anchor. 5.7+, 90'

Rappel twice with one rope.

Location

Follow the left fork of the approach trail; where it meets the cliff, look up and left for a low-angle gully with a big tree at its base. Pandora (5.10) follows three bolts on the slab that forms the left wall of the gully; Spawn starts in the same place but stays left of the slab.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"; bolted belay/rappel anchors. Two one-rope rappels.