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Peak Mountain 3

Goat Yoga

FA Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, Summer 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P. 1 Mostly bolt-protected, but not quite sport climbing. Pull up onto the opening slab, clip a bolt, and move up to a nice ledge below the overhanging headwall (gear in a great horizontal just above the ledge). Climb the steep headwall on mostly big holds past two bolts (optional thin cam placement between the bolts), emerging on a big sloping ledge. Scramble up to the base of the next headwall, placing gear if desired. Step a bit left and climb over unlikely-looking bulges past two bolts. A short finger crack leads to a final bolt just below the nice belay ledge. (This pitch can be toproped by scrambling down and right from the start of Joe's Route to the anchor.) 5.9+, 90'

P. 2 Straight up the bulge above the anchor, then easy slabs to a headwall with a right-leaning crack. Up this, then easy slabs to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.6, 110'

P. 3 Straight up easy slabs (sparse but solid gear in pockets) to a distinctive square-cut block. Protect, then step left and climb up more slabs to an alcove. Climb the left ridge of the alcove to the big ledge. Bolted anchor 15' left of the big pine tree of Joe's Route. 5.3, 115'

Walk off right, rappel (one 70m rope), or take Witchy Woman or Tritium Witch to the top.

Location

This route is located on the lower right side of Barrett's, more or less directly below the Joe's Route - Tangled Up in Blue - Witchy Woman area high above. It's surrounded by mostly wet and vegetated features (ice climbs, in a good winter). While it's possible to approach it directly from the road, the easiest way to find it the first time is probably to follow the base of the cliff down and right from Heathrow until you spot the bolts.

Protection

Regular rack to #3 Camalot, extra long slings, six quickdraws for the bolts on the first pitch. Bolted anchors.