Joker

1. Scramble easily up the chimney to a short finger crack on the left wall. Climb the left wall, passing a bolt, to a ledge. Step right and climb a short friction slab past another bolt; diagonal up right to a stance with a gear anchor. (5.8, 60') (To do this pitch by itself, stay left of the second bolt and go to the big pine tree on Charlotte's Crack.)

2. Step right and climb the overhanging headwall past two bolts. Follow a crack system more or less straight up the slab above, pulling a short headwall on the left to reach Broadway. Belay at the bolted anchor of Charlotte's Crack. (5.9+, 70')

If doing this route in one pitch, use long runners on the lower part to alleviate rope drag.

Start at the base of the Big Chimney, between Queen Charlotte and Poison Ivy. The first pitch climbs the left wall of the chimney.

Standard rack, four bolts.