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Peak Mountain 3

Left Ridge

FA unknown
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Description

Interesting fun (strenuous?) moves in a variety of rock situations. Easier variations also worthwhile.

directions: Start just right of obvious left-facing inside corner. Mount the arete, then step left onto the W-facing short wall which forms the right side of the inside corner. Up diagonal left to the top of the diagonal crack -- without touching a foot to the ramp below left. . . Variation 1a (much easier): Do touch feet to ramp below ramp, then well before reaching top of diagonal crack, move right (and up?) to arete, perhaps reaching a slopy ledge in the arete, or perhaps lower, and cross over to S face along right side of arete (more like 5.8+). . . Variation 1b (easier but still interesting): Before the top of the diagonal crack, go up right to the arete, get hands on or near slopy ledge, and cross over to S face along the right side of the arete.

Continue up the face above the crack to just right of small triangular roof slanting up right, then step right onto slopy ledge on the arete. Up the arete to reach slab. Trend right on slab to reach bottom of next arete which comes down from the cap. Up the left side of the arete. Where the left side gets slopy (a little below the top roof) step right across the arete onto the S face below two small roofs. . . Variation 2a: Stop at the base of higher arete and lower off (or escape right below the two small roofs). . . . . . (Combined with Variation 1a, keeps the overall difficulty below 5.9). . . Variation 2b: Up the right side of the arete (easier but still fun). . . Variation 2c: Up the center right of the face on left side of arete, then step right when it gets too slopy (much harder).

 Finish up through the center of the two small roofs. . . ? project 5.11+ ? variation 3 ? About 20 ft below the cap with small roofs, traverse left off arete onto W face, up face trending left to finish at left-trending 4-inch crack on left side of W side at top of cap. . . Variation 4: From the right side of arete below two roofs, reach up over left end of roofs, then traverse horizontal Left under W side of cap to reach a left-trending 4-inch crack. Up that to top - (easier if taller than 5ft8inch with normal reach) - (difficulty 5.10c perhaps harder if less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.

Location

Just right of obvious left-facing inside corner.

    • See on this Photo.

Protection

For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Walsh.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.