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Peak Mountain 3

Fantasia

FA Josh Janes & Lucas Barth - Summer 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fantasia is a natural continuation of Duty Now for the Future that leads up the southeastern flank of the Sorcerer in two pitches before connecting in with the final pitch of Wailing Banshees. Although it's given the 5.10 rating, since you have to climb at least 5.11d to get to it, this is perhaps best thought of as a cruisey, adventurous finish to Duty Now for the Future. It offers fun climbing up interesting features, though it can be quite run out at times.

P1: Climb Duty Now for the Future (5.11d), or traverse to it's anchor after climbing Iron Maiden (5.12) or Davy Jones' Locker (5.12b). You can also climb Pieces of Eight (5.12c) or The Avenger (5.13b) and traverse left to the first bolt on Fantasia.

P2 (200', 5.10): From the Duty Now anchors, launch up the beautiful, featured green face past three bolts. Traverse right into a water groove system and follow this up, optionally moving back left onto the main face, taking advantage of spaced gear placements, and belay at a good stance in the central water groove at a bolted anchor.

P3 (5.10): Continue up the groove, then trend out right onto the middle of the heavily water-carved and featured wall (wild) picking your way upwards. Not a lot of gear here so be careful with your route finding. Continue to some grainy flakes which can be slung for pro (the same flakes you'd sling for the penultimate belay on Wailing Banshees).

P4 (100', 5.8-5.10): Finish with one of the two final pitches of Wailing Banshees which leads to the top of the formation.

Location

Directly up from the Duty Now for the Future anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack or whatever you brought for the approach pitch.