Duty Now for the Future

Duty Now for the Future is not a line that jumps out at you at first glance... But subtle features allow this route to weave an unlikely path up the steep wall right of Davy Jones' Locker via brilliant, committing climbing. Three distinct cruxes separated by poor rests yield a memorable testpiece of a rock climb which, in my opinion, rivals

Natural Log Cabin

for the "hardest 5.11d in the world".

P1 (50', 5.8): As per Davy Jones, climb the chimney beneath the route, moving up and left and belaying on a large tree below the next chimney.

P2 (130', 5.11d): Squeeze up the chimney above the belay to the top of the pillar and step right off the edge of the pillar and onto the main wall. Stem up opposing shallow corners and pull a tiny roof, continuing to the top of the right-facing corner. From here, clip two bolts, then climb the face up and right to a rail, clip the third bolt, and execute a difficult mantle below the prominent Curtain Overlap that stretches across the wall. Load the Curtain up with gear and commit to the "Penance Run Out" (actually rather adequately protected) to a hanging belay at bolts.

Descent: Continue with Fantasia, rap with two ropes (leave one on the ground and send someone down for it), or do an easy traverse left to the Davy Jones' anchor and do two single-rope raps from there.

Lower east face of the Sorcerer; down around the corner from the Fire Wall.

2x tiny to #0.75 Camalot

1x #1 Camalot

Wires