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Peak Mountain 3

Ski Minne

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Description

Interesting moves at bottom, then fun easier moves higher up.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start up slopy rock about five left of left end of two bench-sit rocks. Aim for just below left from large rounded rock with down-pointing prong, and so reach a distinct "step" with a jug hold at its base - (This is about 15-20 ft right and a bit downward from the bottom of the "central" left-facing inside corner). Up over the "step", using the rounded rock above right for handholds. Gets a bit tricky when the handholds stop about 10 ft up. Just before reaching the tree next to left side of the wide "ridge" up fron the down-pointing prong, turn right and get up onto top of ridge. Next goup on top of the "ridge", and find a sound tree as belay anchor. . . . Variation (easier): When reach the tree next to left side of ridge, pass on its left side and continue up the slab staying ieft of the "ridge".

P2: Continue up face and then follow a crack, finishing a bit right of the stump of big dead fallen pine tree on top platform.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

name: Ski Minne was downhill ski area with a mechanical lift, operated by the Smiley family through the southern Minnewaska mountain resort. Now in the Peterskill area of Minnewaska State Park.

Location

At base of non-steep rock slab about five left of left end of two bench-sit rocks, about 15-20 ft above right from the large single tree which is just  right from the start of the route "Central Inside Corner".

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Protection

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.

warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Substantial run-outs at start + finish. Also some of the placements are of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on non-large cams, medium-to-large-ish stoppers. Lots of slings for trees and rock features.