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Peak Mountain 3

Portal of the Inside Way

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Description

Fun moves up corner, after a slab face start.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start up a few feet and through the "portal" between non-large rocks, and a bit right to step up onto small block leaning against face. Then diagonal up Right between two 8-inch-thick trees, and continue up Rignt to reach bottom (or slightly above it) of left-facing inside corner which trends a bit left-ward. This corner forms the right edge of overall upper slab below the branch which slants down across top of left side of slab -- and forms the left edge of the slab down from stump of big dead fallen pine tree on top platform. , , , (This bottom-of-corner point could also be reached by lowering in on top-rope after finishing one of the other routes of this sector). . . . (or reached by climbing up to just past the "big slanting roof" rock almost to the large two-trunk tree, then traversing Right and downward).

Up that inside corner, trending left, and find a solid tree for belay anchor.

P2: Continue up left-facing corner (optional to step on two tooth rocks), later following a crack, and finishing a bit left of stump of big dead fallen pine tree on top platform.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

At the base of non-steep rock slope, between a two-trunk tree and a large one-trunk, about 20-30 feet right from the bottom of the ridge of the "big slanting roof" rock.

    • See on this Photo

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Protection

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.

warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Perhaps one or two run-out segments, also some placements of low or uncertain quality. Anyway many rocks + ledges to get injured hitting even on a non-long fall.

Trad rack with emphasis on small-ish to medium cams, medium stoppers. Lots of slings for trees or rock features.