Fissure of the Middle Way

Interesting moves in different rock situations.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start about 10-15 feet right from the ridge of the "big slanting roof" rock, just left of a thick two-trunk tree which is just above left of a thick one-trunk tree. Roughty straight up over some short thin slanting cracks, then up a 4-6-inch wide straight crack to its top. Next traverse horixontal Right 10-15 feet to the bottom of a big left-facing inside corner. Up this corner 10-15 feet to a weakness above right. . .  Variation (thoughtful + harder perhaps 5.7): Instead of going up inside the corner, climb the steeper face just right of the corner, up the left half ot fhe face to a tree in the center of the slab above.

At weakness exit from the inside corner up right onto slab (5.3), to a tree in ins center..

P2: Roughly straight to the top, with some delicate footwork (5.5) finishing just Right of thick mature pine tree (with downward-slanting branch on left side).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

At the base of non-steep rock slope just left of a two-trunk tree and about 8-10 feet right from the ridge of the "big slanting roof" rock.

• • See on this Photo

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.

warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Perhaps one or two run-out segments, also some placements of low or uncertain quality. Anyway many rocks + ledges to get injured hitting even on a non-long fall. Harder Variation on P1 is not well-protected (but medium stoppers might help, say BD #9).

Trad rack with lots of slings for trees. P1 emphasis on medium to large-ish cams (likely C4 #0.75 - #2). P2 emphasis on small-ish Meto Mastercams and medium stoppers (BD #8 or #7 likely useful).