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Peak Mountain 3

Canada Regional Air

FA Hans Johnstone, Greg Collins
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A modern, traditional, mixed, 3 pitch route, rising out of 747 Gulley. A dry 5.9 pitch with a bit of ice and snow but mostly rock. Then an easy, 4th class, snow/slab ledge traverse. Then the marquee mixed/ice pitch. See photos. With a relatively short approach this route could be a decent diversion when the early season skiing is poor and it is cold and cloudy. Sun would be bad.

Location

Death Canyon, 747 Gulley, 200 m East of Dihedral of Horrors. Follow summer trail into canyon. Look for 747 Gulley on the east side of the canyon crags. Start up in talus and cottonwood into gulley run out. Hard to see the start from trail. Break trail up the gulley and start the 5.9 first pitch on the right side. The pitch is slabby with a vertical crack, and hanging corner.

Protection

High tech, mostly thin, mixed rack, might as well bring a few pitons.