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Peak Mountain 3

Omega Crack

5.12b
tradsportalpine
FA Hans Johnstone/Greg Collins - Originally equipped by Sam Lightner
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

OMEGA CRACK - P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12b

The finest rock route I've done in the Tetons. Exceptional rock. Very clean cracks, with technical and powerful face climbing. Far and away the steepest crack in the Tetons.

Location

Approach

From Death Canyon TH: Follow trail 100m past slabs at the base of Omega Buttress. Follow scree slope up and right until easy 5th class ledges. Follow easy ledges to the base of the overhanging wall.

Descent

One double rope rappel to the base of the climb. Follow easy ledges down and west until a tree with slings is found. One double rope rappel brings one back to the top of the scree slope.

Protection

PARAPHERNALIA:

10 Quickdraws

1 Set of stoppers

1 Set of Friends with two extra of #2, #3

1 Long sling

Routes in Omega Buttress