Amazing Grace

This might be the quintessential free-climbing hardman pitch at the Garden. It climbs pretty much straight up to the saddle between Tweedle Dum Shire and the Upper West Face on North Gateway Rock. The route is hard, sustained, runout, and sees few ascents, but the climbing is excellent.

Start at the large pothole just off the ground and about 50' north of

The Warren Route

. Go up and right from the pothole past the first pin and make a difficult mantle, followed by sustained and steep edging to get to the 2nd pin. Another difficult section gains some good edges with a few easier moves to the 3rd pin. (Caution - a fall just before clipping either the 2nd or 3rd pins has potential for decking without a careful belay, so be ready). Breathe a little, then continue up past another 5.11 move and sustained 5.10 climbing on sometimes fragile edges and flakes. Gain another good rest at the second up-and-leftward angling, lighter-colored, sedimentary layer of rock. From here, the angle eases, but the climbing will still get your attention until near the top of the pitch. Although there are additional runouts on the upper parts of the route, all the pins are pretty solid.

I consider this yet another testament to the very high standard of free climbing being displayed by our legendary forefathers in the late '70s. To me, Amazing Grace is the perfect name for this time-honored test-piece.

(FA info taken from

Soft Touch III

guidebook by Mark Rolofson.)

Quickdraws for 11 drilled pitons and a 3-pin anchor. Rappel with one 70m rope.