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Peak Mountain 3

Horribly Heinous

FA Herby Hendricks, 1960s. F.F.A.: Bob D'Antonio & Mark Rolofson, February 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

It seems like this climb has faded into obscurity. Bob & I both repeated this climb on numerous occasions in the 1980s. The first 20 feet is the crux, ascending a vertical face with small holds past 3 drilled pins.Then traverse right to a large pothole that provide a great rest.

Continue straight up past potholes & over a small bulge. Vertical (11c) face moves, protected by some old funky drilled pins, lead to the anchor. The reason I give this a PG-13 rating is these old pins.

It is important to note: the pin hole near the first pin is off limits & should be filled. Bob & I never used it. This hole was remaining from the aid ascent but was too large for a normal drilled angle piton. It was filled with putty long ago. Someone dug the putty out. There are some tiny holds for this move that leads to a reach right. This is hard technical move.

I always thought this was a cool pitch  It ought to have its old drilled pitons replaced with bomber bolts.

The first ascent of this 1960s aid line established a 2nd pitch that has not been freed. It finishes up overhanging rock ending on the belay ledge at the end of

Pete & Bob's

Traverse. Have at it.

Location

It is 20 feet right of

Pete & Bob's

Face or 35 feet right of

Pete & Bob's

Crack (the normal start).

Protection

9 drilled pins and a 2 drilled pin anchor.