- Edit (TBD)
Horribly Heinous
Description
It seems like this climb has faded into obscurity. Bob & I both repeated this climb on numerous occasions in the 1980s. The first 20 feet is the crux, ascending a vertical face with small holds past 3 drilled pins.Then traverse right to a large pothole that provide a great rest.
Continue straight up past potholes & over a small bulge. Vertical (11c) face moves, protected by some old funky drilled pins, lead to the anchor. The reason I give this a PG-13 rating is these old pins.
It is important to note: the pin hole near the first pin is off limits & should be filled. Bob & I never used it. This hole was remaining from the aid ascent but was too large for a normal drilled angle piton. It was filled with putty long ago. Someone dug the putty out. There are some tiny holds for this move that leads to a reach right. This is hard technical move.
I always thought this was a cool pitch It ought to have its old drilled pitons replaced with bomber bolts.
The first ascent of this 1960s aid line established a 2nd pitch that has not been freed. It finishes up overhanging rock ending on the belay ledge at the end of
Pete & Bob's
Traverse. Have at it.
Location
It is 20 feet right of
Pete & Bob's
Face or 35 feet right of
Pete & Bob's
Crack (the normal start).
Protection
9 drilled pins and a 2 drilled pin anchor.
Routes in West Face
- 8Horribly Heinous5.12aSport · Aid