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Peak Mountain 3

Warren - Johnson

FA Robert Warren, Mike Johnson, 1984
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Description

Start just north of the

Cowboy Boot Crack

ledge at ground level. Follow 4 drilled angles in a direct line. Very serious groundfall potential plus the unstable holds makes this a route I don't recommend leading. I set up TR by climbing

Cowboy Boot Crack

to its high anchors, rappelled directly down from there to a small belay station beneath the giant pinnacle. I used a 60m rope on TR, but I think a 50m would work. I enjoy climbing the line, though anyone who prefers their holds be solid may not. It is difficult climbing for the grade, although on TR it doesn't really matter.

Protection

4 pins, spaced very far apart. This line is for the very bold leader. Others should TR.