Magical Mystery Tour

P1. Start by climbing Reeds Pinnacle to the big ledge.

P2. Climb Bongs Away Left, Center, or Right to the top of the short pillar. From here, the route begins.

P3. Traverse right through easy blocky terrain to a decent ledge at the base of a crack. Belay here.

P4. Climb the short crack as high as you can and place a piece to protect the traverse. Down climb a bit until you can safely traverse right into a nice corner system. Climb as high as you can before placing a piece being mindful of your second and paying close attention to limiting the potential of a nasty pendulum as they negotiate the crux. The second will clean your high piece and down climb. Your first piece after the traverse should be placed high enough to protect their traverse.

P5. Climb a short fist crack to a ramp and belay on a ledge near a tree. This is the pitch 5 anchor to Beyond Lunacy.

P6. One more pitch of knobby face brings you to the anchors above The Rorp, or continue up Beyond Lunacy. Most parties descend from pitch 5 as the rappel anchors for Beyond Lunacy make for an easy retreat. And you can TR Lunatic Fringe when you get down, so there’s that!

Start up Reeds Pinnacle. You know, that white streak you can see from space!

Cams to 3”. Nuts, 1set.