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Peak Mountain 3

Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route

FA Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc. The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch. It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.

Protection

Pro to 3.5. A No. 4 Cam will make you happier at the start of the final pitch.

Don't miss the piton in the middle of the tunnel. It's up fairly high.