Beyond Lunacy

A fun adventure to the top of Reed’s. Good climb to do during Fall and Winter months. If it has not rained or snowed for over a week, there is a good chance the route will be easily climbable. Since it is only seven pitches, it does not require an alpine start. The protection is adequate and quality of climbing is really good. The 11c crux could be easily aided with a few tiny cams. A nice addition to the area.

Pitch 1: 150 ft 5.10c: The super classic Lunatic Fringe. Climb a right leaning hand-crack for about 25 feet and continue up to double cracks. Do a reachy transition from left to right (crux for many) and continue up. It varies from thin to perfect hands and after a wide pod becomes thin for a few moves. Fortunately the thin sections are not very sustained and there are good stances to place gear. As the crack narrows down make a step left to a jug.

Pitch 2: 80 ft 5.10c: From a bolted belay step left into a thin crack and stem/jam through most difficulties. Thank yourself for bringing a 0 and 00 C3 piece, or something else that fits. Delicate moves take you to a flexing “thank god” jug. Few more cruxy moves bring you to easier ground. This pitch is pretty fun and delicate. Easier face climbing take you up and left, past a tree, to another bolted belay.

Pitch 3: 160 ft 5.9: Step left and around a corner to a right leaning handcrack in a corner. It is not long and you pass a big grassy ledge before reaching another system. Great crack in a corner on the left, and another good looking one just to the right. I took the left crack and loved it. Continue past another ledge and up a short chimney with a crack in the back.

Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an arête and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

Pitch 5: 180ft 5.10b: From the belay step right and up an arete. You can either sling the knobs for pro or place gear in a right facing corner around. Sling a knob above the roof and figure out the sequence to the top of this knob (crux). Don't knock your sling off the knob in the process, like I did. Easier climbing takes you past a few more knobs and a piton. Clip another bolt before an easier roof and climb pretty much straight up a sea of knobs to another bolted belay.

Pitch 6: 130 ft 5.11c: Climb up from the belay towards a left leaning underling. Traverse under it and get into a chimney. Stem out of the flare to pass a roof into a traversing edge. Crank through this not so juggy section and onto a good ledge. Shake out and prepare yourself for first knuckle jamming, stemming and lie backing up a left facing corner (crux). FFA was done with it wet and it was rated 5.11c. Seemed like a 5.11b when dry. Thin gear is really nice to have here. After you are done with the crux continue left under an overhang. Watch your feet and don't slip on the munge.

Pitch 7: 90 ft 510.d/5.11a. From the belay climb over an overhang and establish yourself on a knob from which you can clip the first bolt. Mantle to the top of the bolt and clip another one. Last cruxy move will put you above the difficulties. Make a small traverse left to a pod and mantle up to easy slab. Don't fall here and hike up to a tree with rap slings. If you intend on going to the top bring some more webbing to back up the slings that by now been roughed up by the animals. Or at least back up the anchor for the first (hopefully heavier) person to rappel. Enjoy the views from the top of Reed's and get down in time to buy some beer, or prune juice.

DESCENT: Two 60 M ropes. Rappell the route. Webbing on top of the formation might be damaged by animals, so bringing some extra might be nice.

Whole two minutes above the parking for Reed's.

Standard rack up to BD #2. 0 and 00 C3s are useful. Basically bring a few tiny cams.