- Edit (TBD)
Description
An alternate start to Creeping Extinction that links in at the top of pitch 3.P1 | 12- | Climb up the obvious flake into the roof. Sport your way over it to a nice ledge and a bolted belay.P2 | 10+ | Head up ledges to the system above when it disappears move left to a mini roof then up past a couple more bolts to and anchor. This pitch can be broken up into two mini-pitches should you have issues with rope drag management.P3 | 12 | $$$$$ Heap the overhanging head-wall past amazing holds until you reach the small ledge where the route joins Creeping Extinction more up and left through that crux.P4 | 11- | Traverse right off the belay to the aréte and a crack around it. Head up passing a .75 in a horizontal and some bolts higher. From the huge ledge step right to a final bolder problem and some easy runout climbing.DescentWith a 70m rope rap pitch 4, then make 3 more rappels straight down to Terra Firma.
Location
This is the third route from the left on the wall. Scramble up to a small ledge with a couple trees.
Protection
70 m rope 8 draws 4 runners Singles from red c3 to #2 Small -med nuts (optional)
Routes in The Disenchantment Wall
- 3Didgeri-Don't, Homeboy5.12Trad