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Anyone who slags Shelf for being too slabby (as I sometimes do when my terrible footwork is exposed) should definitely get on this climb.
Campus the initial overhang into a pod, then swing though pleasant moves on big holds for about 20 feet. At the fourth bolt, the jug-hauling ends abruptly. A big crank from thin holds to thinner ones is where your onsight attempt ends. Suss out the reachy crux move, cruise throught the 5.11 moves on ther upper face, and pull your cord for the redpoint.
This is a great climb (but watch out for a sharp, right hand pocket when setting up for the crux -- I sliced my finger wide open in it).
Protection
10 draws.
Routes in The Gym
- 53The Ejection Seat5.12b/cSport