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Peak Mountain 3

Head Cheese

FA Colin Lantz, 1991
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Head Cheese lies to the right of the

Crack of Dawn

(the 10b bolted crack). It's a steep route for Shelf Road on mostly good pockets and crimpers. Facing mostly north, it doesn't get much sun. Trundle up 20 feet to the first bolt. The rock seems solid here but it's a little spooky soloing this far on Shelf Road rock. Move through two steep roof systems with a fairly good rest in between. There are 2 very closely spaced bolts midway up the route. I heard that a clipping jug fell off so a new bolt was added (the bottom of the 2, I think, because it looked different from the other bolts). I only clipped the bottom of the two to avoid a major mid-crux pump. A cool, gymnastic route, this thing deserves more traffic (I've only seen one other party ever try this route).

Protection

7 or 8 bolts + anchors.


Routes in The Gym


  1. 65
    Head Cheese
    5.12d
    Sport